Knock it Off guest post

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 Today I'm visiting Heidi at Elegance and Elephants. Click here to see how I knocked off the Gabriella Dress.

Zipper Teeth Trimmed Neckline Tutorial

 Zipper Teeth Trimmed Neckline Tutorial

This is a golden yellow long sleeve skinny t-shirt with zipper teeth trimmed neckline that I sewed for my son, it was part of this look. And here's how I made it.


Supplies needed:

:: t-shirt pattern (I used Made By Rae's Flashback Skinny Tee)

:: long metal zipper

:: disappearing ink marker

:: diagonal cutter pliers

:: scissors

:: liquid seam sealant


Instructions:

Take your t-shirt pattern and instead of following the given neckline, just cut straight across, then cut out your t-shirt.

 Measure the neckline. From that measurement figure out how long the zipper will need to be, making sure that you have enough zipper tape let on both sides to allow for seam allowances, as you don't want to be running your sewing machine over zipper teeth !


Take your metal zipper, unzip the zipper so that the zipper pull is next to the bottom stop, just above the zipper pull in between zipper teeth, cut all the way across, this will remove the zipper pull and separate the zipper teeth. With disappearing ink marker, mark the needed length, then also mark one seam allowance length away (towards the edge).

 Remove the zipper teeth between the 2 marks by using a diagonal cutter pliers to cut them and or pull them off.

 Using a scissors, cut off the excess zipper at the 2nd mark.

 Apply a small amount of liquid seam sealant to the cut edges, this will prevent the fabric from fraying.

 Pin the zippers onto the t-shirt neckline.

 Using a zipper foot on the sewing machine, sew the zippers onto the neckline.

 Following the t-shirt pattern sewing instructions, finish sewing the t-shirt together.

All done !

Shortening Metal Zippers from the Top Tutorial

 Shortening Metal Zippers from the Top Tutorial

For when you can't get a short enough zipper for a project that you're working on, don't despair, you can shorten it.

I needed to reduce the length of a couple of zippers (from 7 inches down to 3.5 inches) for exposed zipper pockets for a pair of pants I was sewing for my son, here's how I achieved that.

Supplies needed:
:: metal zipper
:: 2 top stops (I got mine from a clothing zipper repair kit that I bought at the local fabric store)
:: diagonal cutter pliers
:: long nose pliers
:: ruler
:: disappearing ink marker
:: scissors
:: liquid seam sealant

 Starting from the bottom stop, measure the desired length of the zipper, then using a disappearing marker, make a mark on the tape.

 Using a disappearing ink marker, make a 2nd mark 1 inch above the 1st mark. Remove the zipper teeth between those 2 marks, using a diagonal cutter pliers cut and or pull each tooth. (Note: these metal zipper teeth can be difficult to cut, at least they were for me & watch out, they can go flying... I'm still finding little cut up metal zipper teeth all over my sewing room)

 Place a top stop above the highest zipper tooth, using the long nose pliers, pinch the top stop together so that it is secure. Repeat this for the other side of the zipper.

 With a scissors cut off the excess zipper at the 2nd mark that you made.

 Apply a small amount of liquid seam sealant to the cut edges, this will prevent the fabric from fraying.

All done. Now you can use your new shortened metal zippers.

Purpledicular Dress Tutorial

 Purpledicular Dress Tutorial (Purpledicular Dress = Purple Perpendicular Dress)

I was so inspired by a stunning black and white striped dress from Oscar de la Renta Spring 2013 Ready to Wear collection that I decided to create my own version for my 5 year old daughter. Mr Oscar de la Renta was fortunate to be able to use pre striped fabric, but for me this was for a white sheet challenge, so I had to make my own striped fabric and I achieved that by doing piecing. Here's how I constructed the Purpledicular Dress, size 5.

Supplies needed:
:: king size white cotton flat sheet
:: half bottle of purple liquid dye
:: one white invisible zipper
:: white thread
:: rotary cutter
:: cutting mat
:: quilting ruler
:: bodice pattern

Instructions:
Half inch seam allowances throughout.
From the white sheet cut out 2 sections that are approximately 50-some inches by 60-some inches. Take one of those sections and dye it with half a bottle of purple liquid dye.

 Cut sixteen 3 inch strips out of the white and sixteen 2 inch strips out of the purple, so that the strips are 60-some inches long

 Sew strips together, alternating white and purple, until you have 16 rows. Press open seams.

 Do this a second time, so you end up with 2 striped sections of 16 rows.

 Take the first 16 row striped section, find the center point and cut at a 45 degree angle to the right (through the center point).

 Repeat for the second section, but this time cut at a 45 degree angle to the left.

 Put 2 sections together in order to form 90 degree angles.

 Then sew together, press seams.

 Make the skirt pattern as shown in the sketch. The half circle on top has a diameter of 7 inches, the total angle is 90 degrees, the length is 25 inches. Once you have that done add a half inch on to each of the sides of the quarter circle, this is for seam allowances.

 I used white sheet fabric to make my skirt pattern, this photos shows where I had just finished making the  3.5 inch radius.

 Take the skirt pattern and lay it on top of one of the 90 degree angle fabric pieces. Cut it out so that there will be 1.5" of white on each side. The width of the white strip is 2 inches on the side seams as it was throughout the whole dress.

 When cutting out the second skirt piece, lay the first skirt piece on top of the second 90 degree angle fabric piece, line them up so that the second piece will be exactly the same as the first.

 These 2 sections side by side form a half circle.

 They are two quarter circle skirt sections (where the front and back pieces are exactly the same).

 Sew together the side seams of the skirt, this would be the time to add nice deep on seam side pockets, if you'd like. I recommend lining the entire dress (I used white sheet fabric) to hide all those carefully pressed open seams and to make it nice against the skin.

From the remaining fabric cut out the bodice pieces. The base pattern I used for the bodice was from the Oliver+S Fairy Tale Dress size 5. I made my bodice sleeveless, collarless, and constructed it differently than what's in the given instructions, but it is still fully lined (with white sheet fabric) and has the invisible zipper in the back. I cut out the bodice pieces so that the bodice would have horizontal lines and that the bottom of the bodice ended up (after being attached to the skirt) having the 1 inch purple stripe. Once the bodice is completely sewn together, attach the skirt to the bodice. Install the invisible zipper in the back and you are done !

 If you like the Purpledicular Dress, you might also like:
:: This Mama Makes Stuff Go To Signature Dress which is an awesome red and white striped maxi dress
:: Shwin and Shwin's (purple and white) Color Block Dress
 

 After completing this dress, I had some fabric scraps remaining and decided to play around with them. I had just enough to make an alternative front bodice piece (using the same bodice pattern), but instead of horizontal lines, it is chevron style. Just an example to inspire you to play around with this idea and have fun with it.

Speaking of which if you like the chevron bodice you might also like… Running With Scissors':
:: Chevron Twirl Dress
:: Tana Frock: chevron, ombre died, summer dress
:: Gidget Frock: Chevron Ombre Dress

Happy sewing !

Faux Mink Pullover Tutorial

 Faux Mink Pullover Tutorial (this mink pullover was part of the look that I created here)

How to make a little girl a mink pullover with only half yard of fabric (65" wide). I made the pattern for this pullover from scratch, taking extra care during the planning and cutting out to match up the lines with the the sleeves to the front and back pieces, I will attempt with photos to show you how I achieved that.

This faux mink pullover is A-line, it features 3/4 length raglan sleeves, and a funnel collar.

Finished measurements:
length (includes funnel collar): 16"
bottom width: 15.75"
sleeve length (includes funnel collar): 12.75"
funnel collar: length around: 21.75"; width: approximately 1.25"

 Make pattern pieces out of muslin (or thin cotton) following these measurements:
First let's start out with the front/back pattern piece... length: 16.5"

 front/back piece measurement: 5.75"

 front/back piece measurement: 13.75"

 front/back piece measurement: bottom width: 15.5"

 front/back piece measurement: 4.5"

 front/back piece measurement: 120 degree angle

 Now moving onto the sleeve pattern piece... length: 12"

 sleeve piece measurement: 5.5"

 sleeve piece measurement: 12.5"

 sleeve piece measurement: bottom width: 11.75"

 sleeve piece measurement: 4.75"

 sleeve piece measurement: 110 degree angle

 And finally for the funnel collar piece: length: 22.75" width: 3"

Get the raglan sleeve curve by tracing it from a raglan sleeve shirt from your child's closet or a raglan sleeve pattern like the O+S art smock or the O+S field trip raglan t-shirt, for example.

First of all, cut a 3" strip off one end of the fabric, you will have a 18"X3" section that will be used for the funnel collar.

Following the lines on the front of the mink fabric and using a permanent marker draw lines on the back of the mink fabric (see photo). Using a disappearing marker, draw lines on muslin pattern (following the same spacing of the lines on the mink fabric) and match up those lines on the mink fabric. See placement of pattern pieces in the photo to maximize space, the way that they are laid out is the only way I could make this pullover out of only half yard of fabric.

 On the sides of both the pattern pieces (the front/back piece & sleeve piece) I added half inch when cutting out to allow for seam allowances.

From the remaining scraps, cut out a piece that is 5.75"X3" sew that together with the 18"X3" piece using half inch seam allowance, now you will have a piece that is 22.75"X3". Now sew that into a loop using half inch seam allowance, now you will have a loop that is 21.75"X3". Fold it in half and you will have a funnel collar that is 21.75"X1.5". Set aside for later.

Sew sleeves to front and back pieces. Then sew the sleeve and side seams in one operation. Sew the funnel collar to the top of the pullover. (Half inch seam allowances were used, except when attaching the funnel collar on to the pullover, .25" seam allowance was used).

Hem the bottom and sleeves with your preferred hem finishing method (I sewed them by hand). Hem on the bottom was approximately 2" and hem on the sleeves approximately 1.5"

You are done !

 By the way, the half yard of faux mink cost me only $10!

To add the pink felted bow, see my tutorial here.

Happy sewing !

PS nest full of eggs turns 3 years old today :)